Publisher's Synopsis
This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can usually download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1882 edition. Excerpt: ... CHAPTER VIII. REIGNS OF LOUIS XL, CHARLES VIII., AND LOUIS XII. i461 TO 1515. Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XI.-- "La grand'gorre," or sumptuosity--The "troussoire"--Allegorical and moral costumes -- Trains -- Head-dresses--"Collets rebrasses"--Wigs and false hair--Some results of the war in Italy--Italian fashions-- "Sollerets" and slippers--Gorgets--Garters--Jean Marot writes against novelties-- Anne of Brittany--Pins--Menot "the golden-tongued "--A Parisian in the time of Louis XII.--Coat h ITtalienne--Manufacture of stuffs. The Empire of Fashion was scarcely founded, ere it began to promulgate those despotic laws which have never been relaxed to the present day. The spread of luxury, art, and comfort, which became manifest at the dawn of the Renaissance, led to a sudden change in the whole character of costume. This fact has been commented on by all historians; and can be verified and explained by the archives of the period. Although for the most part Louis XI. affected a great simplicity in his dress, and was fond of playing the "bourgeois," yet at times he desired to see his palace filled with nobles richly attired, and wearing magnificent stuffs, even of foreign manufacture. The astute sovereign appreciated the influence of fashion on commercial prosperity. Then commenced a competition in dress between the bourgeoisie of the towns and the nobility; as says the poet, -- "En Paris, y en a beaucoup Qui n'ont d'argent, vergier, ne terre, Que vous jugeriez chascun coup Allies aux grands chefs de guerre- lls se disent issus d'Angleterre, D'un comte, d'un baron d'Anjou, Parents aux senechaux d'Auxerre, Ou auxchatelains du Poitou, Combien qu'ils soient saillis d'un trou, De la cliquette d'un meunier, Voire ou de la ligne'e d'un...