Publisher's Synopsis
Excerpt from d104ile World Journal Kink Book, Vol. 2: Compiled From the Columns of d104ile World Journal
We are sending you two samples of a 4 harness twill fabric, one showing the cloth from the loom and the other showing the cloth finished. You will note the selvage on the gray cloth is ?at, while on the finished cloth it is curled. The finisher says the edge curls up as soon as the cloth is wet and thinks a change should be made in weaving it. Would you recommend a different selvage or should the cloth finish satisfactorily as it is? (3094) On twills the curly selvage trouble is common. In the present case only six threads are used for each selvage and the wonder is not that the finished cloth is unsatisfactory but that the gray cloth selvage is so good. Some men believe that the only complete remedy for the trouble found in finishing 4-leaf twills is to have a plain selvage.
As the cloth is now woven, the outside end of the selvage is woven in by the filling every fourth pick, making a very ragged and loose selvage. Owing to the construction being heavier in the warp than in the filling, the natural tendency of the cloth when placed in water is to shrink. The cloth curls toward the back because of the Open character of the weave on that side.
If the cloth is examined under the microscope, it will be noticed that the selvage ends are all crowded together. When the outside end is crossed by the filling it is pulled over the next three ends and the shrinkage of the filling when wet is sufficient to cause the rolling of the selvage to continue. When it gets a start there is no means, short of a tentering machine to keep it straight.
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